Prepare the soil long before you plant the grapevine. Planting Bare-Root Grapes. During the winter dormant season, garden stores in warm climates begin to sell bare-root grapevines.
Stay ahead of early season grapevine canopy pathogens and reminder to assess bud damage to inform pruning decisions.
With relatively cool temperatures and unseasonable snow events in early April slowing normal vineyard operations in Northwest Michigan, the race is on for vineyard managers to complete pruning and tying of grapevines prior to bud break. Depending on spring heat unit accumulation, bud break is expected to occur in approximately two to three weeks, in mid-May. Although there have not been widespread reports of serious bud cold damage, assessment of bud cold damage is still recommended by Michigan State University Extension to guide pruning decisions. For more information on how to adjust pruning to various levels of cold damage, please see Assessing and Managing Grapevines in Response to Winter Injury.
Grapevine in the fall. Autumn vineyard. Photo about pink, october, leaves, orange, natural, beautiful, grapevine, valley, september, plant. Grapevine wreaths are a staple of fall decor, whether they hang on a door, a wall, or above a mantel. However, the prettiest fall door wreaths can cost a pretty penny, and there's no guarantee that this year's fall trends will be in style next season. Grapes grow during warm months of the year. Grapes are planted in the late winter to early spring months. The plants start to grow in spring and continue to grow throughout the summer season. Grapes ripen in the late summer to early fall, depending on the variety grown. Grapevine-Southlake Soccer Association strives to encourage a life-long love of soccer by providing memorable, fun, fair, and educational opportunities to play the game. In playing soccer, our children (and our children at heart), join in one of the few truly global community experiences along with millions of players from around the world.
Prior to the bud break stage, sometimes called bud burst, it is important to conduct dormant fungicide applications to reduce disease pressure. Research has shown that these applications can reduce pathogen inoculum by roughly 30 to 50 percent (e.g. for Phomopsis, powdery mildew, black rot and anthracnose). Dormant sprays of lime sulfur and Bordeaux mixture, copper and lime, are commonly applied. When applying these sprays for the first time, follow all the label directions. It may be wise to treat a smaller area or use lesser rates until you feel confident avoiding any phytotoxicity issues. For more information on dormant season grapevine fungicide applications, please see this article.
After applying dormant sprays, it is important to prepare for early-season spray applications beginning after bud break. Managing early season grapevine diseases is critical for successful grape and wine production. However, the rate (amount/unit area), timing (based on phenological stages of grapevines) of fungicide applications and environmental conditions required for various grapevine diseases can be easily misunderstood. This misunderstanding may lead to applying fungicide products at a rate and time that may reduce the efficacy of those products. For this report, we will focus on Phomopsis cane and leaf spot, black rot and powdery and downy mildew.
Generally, there are two phases for fungicide applications for grape diseases:
- Phase One (early season): one to three-inch growth to four weeks after bloom
- Phase Two (late season): three to four weeks after bloom through harvest.
The most critical period for controlling grape diseases with fungicides
The first seven fungicide applications made before bloom through two to four weeks after bloom are an important step in grape disease management. The most critical period for spraying grapes is pre-bloom through two to four weeks after bloom period.
Phomopsis cane and leaf spot (Phomopsis viticola)
Background: Disease incidence of Phomopsis cane and leaf spot appears to be increasing in many vineyards throughout the Midwest, with crop losses up to 30 percent reported.
Symptoms: Dark lesions on canes, spots on leaves and fruit browning and decay.
Phomopsis on young and old leaves. Phomopsis on rachis and berries. Phomopsis visible on a cane.
Conditions favoring infection: Cool and wet weather conditions.
Early spring foliar treatments (phase one) labeled for Phomopsis cane and leaf spot listed alphabetically by trade name (active ingredient; FRAC code):
Abound (azoxystrobin; 11), Captan 50WP (captan; M04), Dithane 75DF (Mancozeb; M03), Pristine 38WG (pyraclostrobin and boscalid; 11 and 7), Sovran 50WG (kresoxim-methyl; 11), Ziram 76DF (ziram; M03)
Apply fungicide from bud break through bloom at seven to 10 day intervals depending on weather conditions and according to label directions.
Black rot (Guignardia bidwellii)
Background: The black rot fungus overwinters in mummified fruit on the vine or on the ground. Black rot may be particularly important in organic production systems because many organically approved fungicides (copper and sulfur) are not very effective for black rot control.
Symptoms: Dark lesions on leaves, and mummified berries.
Black rot leaf lesion. Close up of black rot leaf lesion.
Black rot lesions on a cluster. Close up of black rot lesion on a cluster.
Early spring foliar treatments (phase 1) labeled for black rot listed alphabetically by trade name (active ingredient; FRAC code):
Abound (azoxystrobin; 11), Adament 50WG (tebuconazole and trifloxystrobin; 3 and 11), Captan 50WP (captan; M04), Dithane 75DF (Mancozeb; M03), Pristine 38WG (pyraclostrobin and boscalid; 11 and 7), Sovran 50WG (kresoxim-methyl; 11), Ziram 76DF (ziram; M03)
Apply fungicide from bud break through bloom at seven to 10 day intervals depending on weather conditions and according to label directions.
Bottom line for black rot: Sanitation is critical to successful black rot control. Mummies are the most important overwintering source of the black rot fungus. If all mummies and infected canes are removed from the vineyard, there is no source of primary inoculum in the spring and, thus, the disease is controlled. If all mummies cannot be removed from the vineyard, it is extremely important that they are not left hanging in the trellis. The most critical period to control black rot with fungicide is from immediate pre-bloom through three to four weeks after bloom.
Powdery mildew (Erysiphe necator)
Background: If left unchecked on susceptible cultivars, powdery mildew can reduce vine growth, yield, quality and winter hardiness. Research has shown that almost all fruiting bodies (chasmothecia) of this fungus overwinter in bark crevices on the grapevine. In the spring, airborne spores (ascospores) released from the chasmothecia are the primary inoculum for powdery mildew infections.
Symptoms: The fungus can infect all green tissues of the grapevine and develops as white powdery blotches on fruit and mature leaves, and distortion (curling) of young grape shoots or leaves.
Powdery mildew on a leaf. Powdery mildew visible on clusters.
Conditions favoring infection: Although infection can occur at temperatures from 59 to 90 degrees Farenheit, temperature of 68 to 77 F are optimal for infection. High relative humidity is conducive for conidium production and 40 to 100 percent relative humidity range is sufficient for germination of conidia and infection. However, rainfall (free moisture) is detrimental to conidial survival.
Foliar treatments labeled for powdery mildew listed alphabetically by mode of action, then alphabetically by trade name (active ingredient):
Demethylation Inhibitors (FRAC code three): Elite 45DF (tebuconazole), Mettle 125 ME (tetraconazole), Rally 40WSP (myclobutanil), Rhyme (flutriafol) and Viticure (triflumizole)
Quinone outside Inhibitors (FRAC code 11): Abound (azoxystrobin), Flint (trifloxystrobin) and Sovran 50WG (kresoxim-methyl)
Quinolines (FRAC code 13): Quintec (quinoxyfen)
Phenyl acetamide and Benzophenone and (FRAC codes U6 and U8, respectively): Torino (cyflufenamid) and Vivando (metrafenone)
Multiple active ingredient formulations: Inspire Super (difenoconazole and cyprodinil), Luna Experience (fluopyram and tebuconazole), Pristine (pyraclostrobin and boscalid) and Quadris Top (difenoconazole and azoxystrobin)
Other products (not a comprehensive list): Biologicals (e.g. Serenade Max or Sonata), Contact materials (e.g. Kaligreen or JMS Stylet Oil) and Elemental sulfur
Downy mildew (Plasmopara viticola)
Background: Downy mildew is a major disease of grapes throughout the eastern United States. This disease is caused by a fungal-like organism that thrives in extremely wet environments. The pathogen P. viticola causes direct yield loss by rotting inflorescences, clusters and shoots and indirect crop loss by premature defoliation. Vitis vinifera cultivars are typically much more susceptible than interspecific hybrids. The causal pathogen overwinters as microscopic oospores in leaf debris on the vineyard floor which, in the spring, serve as the primary inoculum and germinate in water to form sporangia. When sporangia encounter free water, zoospores are then released and are transferred by rain splash to the surface of the grapevine and enter via grapevine stomata.
Symptoms: The pathogen can infect all green tissues of the grapevine and is expressed as yellowish-green lesions on the upper leaf surface at about one to two weeks following infection. As lesions expand, the affected areas turn brown and necrotic. On lower leaf surface, patches of gray downy growth are usually directly beneath the yellowish-green spots observed on the upper leaf surface. Downy cluster infection is expressed as white to gray sporulation on the berries.
Downy mildew visible on upper side of leaf. Downy mildew visible on lower side of leaf.
Downy mildew on a cluster.
Conditions favoring infection: At night, during periods of high humidity and temperatures above 55 F. Research indicates oospore germination can occur at 50 F with 0.4 inches of rain when shoots are 4 inches long.
Management recommendations for downy mildew in phase one (early season: one to three-inch growth to four weeks after bloom) and phase two (late season: three to four weeks after bloom through harvest).
Foliar treatments labeled for downy mildew listed alphabetically by trade name (active ingredient; FRAC code):
Abound (azoxystrobin; 11), Copper hydroxide (M1), Pristine 38WG (pyraclostrobin and boscalid; 11 and seven), Ridomil Gold Copper (mefenoxam and copper hydroxide; four and M1), Sovran 50WG (kresoxim-methyl; 11).
This article was published by Michigan State University Extension. For more information, visit https://extension.msu.edu. To have a digest of information delivered straight to your email inbox, visit https://extension.msu.edu/newsletters. To contact an expert in your area, visit https://extension.msu.edu/experts, or call 888-MSUE4MI (888-678-3464).
Did you find this article useful?
Check out the MSU Agricultural Operations Certificate Program!
Check out the MSU Agricultural Industries Certificate Program!
You Might Also Be Interested In
Eric Stafne, Mississippi State University
This article will answer the following basic questions:
- How do I plant a grape vine?
- What is the best time of year to plant grapes?
- When should I plant grape vines?
- What kind of plant material should I buy?
Planting Method for Bare-Root Vines
- Be sure to keep vines moist right up to planting.
- Dig a small hole with a hand-held or tractor-mounted post digger about 6 inches in diameter, 4 inches to 6 inches deep. In soils with high clay content, glazing of the sides of the hole may occur, which can impede root growth. In this situation, break up the glazed areas using a shovel or equivalent tool.
- Immediately prior to planting, trim the roots to fit the hole and cut the top growth back to only two to three buds (above the graft union on grafted vines) on the strongest cane. Remove all other canes.
- Stand the plant in the hole and pack the same soil back into the hole around the plant. If you are using grafted vines, make sure the graft union is above the soil line by approximately 6 inches.
- Install a stake next to the vine to provide stability.
- Water the vine with two or three gallons of water immediately after planting.
- As new shoots begin to grow, watch for signs of pest damage that may inhibit vigorous growth.
- Do not allow weeds to grow near the vine row, and keep the young vines well watered. The amount and frequency of irrigation will vary depending on region and environmental conditions.
Green growing (potted) vines should be acclimated to seasonal weather conditions in a protected area for a few days prior to planting. Do not plant potted vines until after the risk of frost has passed in the spring. Be sure to remove the vine from pots before planting. If you are using grow tubes, install them after planting, lightly covering the base with soil to exclude herbicide sprays. Do not bury them too deep into the soil as root constriction may occur.
Timing
In most of the U.S., the best time to plant grape vines is very late winter or early spring, if irrigation is available.
To ensure the highest quality vines and a specific cultivar or rootstock, order vines from a reputable nursery [1] in the summer or early fall prior to planting in spring. If you wait until January or February to order, you could have problems with plant availability and/or quality [2]. For example, you will probably miss out on the best rooted cuttings (often termed #1), and poor quality vines can be too weak to survive. The nursery should ship the vines at or near your desired timeframe around planting.
Once delivered, vines should be planted immediately, if possible, and not stored. Storage of dormant vines leads to desiccation of the roots and buds. This will prohibit the vine from growing optimally and may lead to death.
If vines are received before the site is ready for planting (e.g., soil preparation, irrigation set up or trellis construction has not been completed), unpack the vines and cover them with soil in the shade until planting. This is known as 'heeling-in.' Vines will remain healthy in the heel bed for up to four months. Do not store vines in water or a refrigerator for long periods of time. Water the heel bed periodically to keep the roots moist but not wet. Never allow the roots to dry out, as this will lead to poor growth or vine death.
Nursery Stock and Standards
Most grapevines are sold as dormant rooted cuttings and are either grafted or own-rooted. Rooted cuttings are graded by nursery industry standards. Becoming familiar with these standards is important to help you make decisions on plant material and can make the difference between success and failure of a new vineyard. For further information see Quality Guidelines for Grapevine Nursery Stock.
A 2-year-old #1 vine is more vigorous and will transplant with better success and become productive quicker than a #2 vine. A #1 rooted cutting is produced in a phylloxera-free nursery and certified as virus tested. Although certified virus-tested vines are initially more expensive, they are cheaper in the long run as this avoids problems with lower production and poor plant health associated with virus-infected vines. Remember, virus-tested vines from the nursery may not stay that way in the vineyard if efficient vectors are present, and virus-tested vines are not guaranteed to be completely virus free. Virus-infected vines can never be cured. Virus-tested cuttings should be ordered as far in advance as possible (up to one year prior to planting) to ensure availability of planting stock. Vineyard establishment from non-rooted cuttings is a gamble and you should consider success from them as atypical. This method, although less expensive initially, often leads to slower growing vines that do not come into bearing as quickly as purchased vines. You can also inadvertently introduce diseases and viruses into the vineyard by taking cuttings from another vineyard. All new vines should be free of viruses, insects, and disease.
Recommended Resources
Tips on Growing Grapes, University of Minnesota
Prepare the soil long before you plant the grapevine. Planting Bare-Root Grapes. During the winter dormant season, garden stores in warm climates begin to sell bare-root grapevines.
Stay ahead of early season grapevine canopy pathogens and reminder to assess bud damage to inform pruning decisions.
With relatively cool temperatures and unseasonable snow events in early April slowing normal vineyard operations in Northwest Michigan, the race is on for vineyard managers to complete pruning and tying of grapevines prior to bud break. Depending on spring heat unit accumulation, bud break is expected to occur in approximately two to three weeks, in mid-May. Although there have not been widespread reports of serious bud cold damage, assessment of bud cold damage is still recommended by Michigan State University Extension to guide pruning decisions. For more information on how to adjust pruning to various levels of cold damage, please see Assessing and Managing Grapevines in Response to Winter Injury.
Grapevine in the fall. Autumn vineyard. Photo about pink, october, leaves, orange, natural, beautiful, grapevine, valley, september, plant. Grapevine wreaths are a staple of fall decor, whether they hang on a door, a wall, or above a mantel. However, the prettiest fall door wreaths can cost a pretty penny, and there's no guarantee that this year's fall trends will be in style next season. Grapes grow during warm months of the year. Grapes are planted in the late winter to early spring months. The plants start to grow in spring and continue to grow throughout the summer season. Grapes ripen in the late summer to early fall, depending on the variety grown. Grapevine-Southlake Soccer Association strives to encourage a life-long love of soccer by providing memorable, fun, fair, and educational opportunities to play the game. In playing soccer, our children (and our children at heart), join in one of the few truly global community experiences along with millions of players from around the world.
Prior to the bud break stage, sometimes called bud burst, it is important to conduct dormant fungicide applications to reduce disease pressure. Research has shown that these applications can reduce pathogen inoculum by roughly 30 to 50 percent (e.g. for Phomopsis, powdery mildew, black rot and anthracnose). Dormant sprays of lime sulfur and Bordeaux mixture, copper and lime, are commonly applied. When applying these sprays for the first time, follow all the label directions. It may be wise to treat a smaller area or use lesser rates until you feel confident avoiding any phytotoxicity issues. For more information on dormant season grapevine fungicide applications, please see this article.
After applying dormant sprays, it is important to prepare for early-season spray applications beginning after bud break. Managing early season grapevine diseases is critical for successful grape and wine production. However, the rate (amount/unit area), timing (based on phenological stages of grapevines) of fungicide applications and environmental conditions required for various grapevine diseases can be easily misunderstood. This misunderstanding may lead to applying fungicide products at a rate and time that may reduce the efficacy of those products. For this report, we will focus on Phomopsis cane and leaf spot, black rot and powdery and downy mildew.
Generally, there are two phases for fungicide applications for grape diseases:
- Phase One (early season): one to three-inch growth to four weeks after bloom
- Phase Two (late season): three to four weeks after bloom through harvest.
The most critical period for controlling grape diseases with fungicides
The first seven fungicide applications made before bloom through two to four weeks after bloom are an important step in grape disease management. The most critical period for spraying grapes is pre-bloom through two to four weeks after bloom period.
Phomopsis cane and leaf spot (Phomopsis viticola)
Background: Disease incidence of Phomopsis cane and leaf spot appears to be increasing in many vineyards throughout the Midwest, with crop losses up to 30 percent reported.
Symptoms: Dark lesions on canes, spots on leaves and fruit browning and decay.
Phomopsis on young and old leaves. Phomopsis on rachis and berries. Phomopsis visible on a cane.
Conditions favoring infection: Cool and wet weather conditions.
Early spring foliar treatments (phase one) labeled for Phomopsis cane and leaf spot listed alphabetically by trade name (active ingredient; FRAC code):
Abound (azoxystrobin; 11), Captan 50WP (captan; M04), Dithane 75DF (Mancozeb; M03), Pristine 38WG (pyraclostrobin and boscalid; 11 and 7), Sovran 50WG (kresoxim-methyl; 11), Ziram 76DF (ziram; M03)
Apply fungicide from bud break through bloom at seven to 10 day intervals depending on weather conditions and according to label directions.
Black rot (Guignardia bidwellii)
Background: The black rot fungus overwinters in mummified fruit on the vine or on the ground. Black rot may be particularly important in organic production systems because many organically approved fungicides (copper and sulfur) are not very effective for black rot control.
Symptoms: Dark lesions on leaves, and mummified berries.
Black rot leaf lesion. Close up of black rot leaf lesion.
Black rot lesions on a cluster. Close up of black rot lesion on a cluster.
Early spring foliar treatments (phase 1) labeled for black rot listed alphabetically by trade name (active ingredient; FRAC code):
Abound (azoxystrobin; 11), Adament 50WG (tebuconazole and trifloxystrobin; 3 and 11), Captan 50WP (captan; M04), Dithane 75DF (Mancozeb; M03), Pristine 38WG (pyraclostrobin and boscalid; 11 and 7), Sovran 50WG (kresoxim-methyl; 11), Ziram 76DF (ziram; M03)
Apply fungicide from bud break through bloom at seven to 10 day intervals depending on weather conditions and according to label directions.
Bottom line for black rot: Sanitation is critical to successful black rot control. Mummies are the most important overwintering source of the black rot fungus. If all mummies and infected canes are removed from the vineyard, there is no source of primary inoculum in the spring and, thus, the disease is controlled. If all mummies cannot be removed from the vineyard, it is extremely important that they are not left hanging in the trellis. The most critical period to control black rot with fungicide is from immediate pre-bloom through three to four weeks after bloom.
Powdery mildew (Erysiphe necator)
Background: If left unchecked on susceptible cultivars, powdery mildew can reduce vine growth, yield, quality and winter hardiness. Research has shown that almost all fruiting bodies (chasmothecia) of this fungus overwinter in bark crevices on the grapevine. In the spring, airborne spores (ascospores) released from the chasmothecia are the primary inoculum for powdery mildew infections.
Symptoms: The fungus can infect all green tissues of the grapevine and develops as white powdery blotches on fruit and mature leaves, and distortion (curling) of young grape shoots or leaves.
Powdery mildew on a leaf. Powdery mildew visible on clusters.
Conditions favoring infection: Although infection can occur at temperatures from 59 to 90 degrees Farenheit, temperature of 68 to 77 F are optimal for infection. High relative humidity is conducive for conidium production and 40 to 100 percent relative humidity range is sufficient for germination of conidia and infection. However, rainfall (free moisture) is detrimental to conidial survival.
Foliar treatments labeled for powdery mildew listed alphabetically by mode of action, then alphabetically by trade name (active ingredient):
Demethylation Inhibitors (FRAC code three): Elite 45DF (tebuconazole), Mettle 125 ME (tetraconazole), Rally 40WSP (myclobutanil), Rhyme (flutriafol) and Viticure (triflumizole)
Quinone outside Inhibitors (FRAC code 11): Abound (azoxystrobin), Flint (trifloxystrobin) and Sovran 50WG (kresoxim-methyl)
Quinolines (FRAC code 13): Quintec (quinoxyfen)
Phenyl acetamide and Benzophenone and (FRAC codes U6 and U8, respectively): Torino (cyflufenamid) and Vivando (metrafenone)
Multiple active ingredient formulations: Inspire Super (difenoconazole and cyprodinil), Luna Experience (fluopyram and tebuconazole), Pristine (pyraclostrobin and boscalid) and Quadris Top (difenoconazole and azoxystrobin)
Other products (not a comprehensive list): Biologicals (e.g. Serenade Max or Sonata), Contact materials (e.g. Kaligreen or JMS Stylet Oil) and Elemental sulfur
Downy mildew (Plasmopara viticola)
Background: Downy mildew is a major disease of grapes throughout the eastern United States. This disease is caused by a fungal-like organism that thrives in extremely wet environments. The pathogen P. viticola causes direct yield loss by rotting inflorescences, clusters and shoots and indirect crop loss by premature defoliation. Vitis vinifera cultivars are typically much more susceptible than interspecific hybrids. The causal pathogen overwinters as microscopic oospores in leaf debris on the vineyard floor which, in the spring, serve as the primary inoculum and germinate in water to form sporangia. When sporangia encounter free water, zoospores are then released and are transferred by rain splash to the surface of the grapevine and enter via grapevine stomata.
Symptoms: The pathogen can infect all green tissues of the grapevine and is expressed as yellowish-green lesions on the upper leaf surface at about one to two weeks following infection. As lesions expand, the affected areas turn brown and necrotic. On lower leaf surface, patches of gray downy growth are usually directly beneath the yellowish-green spots observed on the upper leaf surface. Downy cluster infection is expressed as white to gray sporulation on the berries.
Downy mildew visible on upper side of leaf. Downy mildew visible on lower side of leaf.
Downy mildew on a cluster.
Conditions favoring infection: At night, during periods of high humidity and temperatures above 55 F. Research indicates oospore germination can occur at 50 F with 0.4 inches of rain when shoots are 4 inches long.
Management recommendations for downy mildew in phase one (early season: one to three-inch growth to four weeks after bloom) and phase two (late season: three to four weeks after bloom through harvest).
Foliar treatments labeled for downy mildew listed alphabetically by trade name (active ingredient; FRAC code):
Abound (azoxystrobin; 11), Copper hydroxide (M1), Pristine 38WG (pyraclostrobin and boscalid; 11 and seven), Ridomil Gold Copper (mefenoxam and copper hydroxide; four and M1), Sovran 50WG (kresoxim-methyl; 11).
This article was published by Michigan State University Extension. For more information, visit https://extension.msu.edu. To have a digest of information delivered straight to your email inbox, visit https://extension.msu.edu/newsletters. To contact an expert in your area, visit https://extension.msu.edu/experts, or call 888-MSUE4MI (888-678-3464).
Did you find this article useful?
Check out the MSU Agricultural Operations Certificate Program!
Check out the MSU Agricultural Industries Certificate Program!
You Might Also Be Interested In
Eric Stafne, Mississippi State University
This article will answer the following basic questions:
- How do I plant a grape vine?
- What is the best time of year to plant grapes?
- When should I plant grape vines?
- What kind of plant material should I buy?
Planting Method for Bare-Root Vines
- Be sure to keep vines moist right up to planting.
- Dig a small hole with a hand-held or tractor-mounted post digger about 6 inches in diameter, 4 inches to 6 inches deep. In soils with high clay content, glazing of the sides of the hole may occur, which can impede root growth. In this situation, break up the glazed areas using a shovel or equivalent tool.
- Immediately prior to planting, trim the roots to fit the hole and cut the top growth back to only two to three buds (above the graft union on grafted vines) on the strongest cane. Remove all other canes.
- Stand the plant in the hole and pack the same soil back into the hole around the plant. If you are using grafted vines, make sure the graft union is above the soil line by approximately 6 inches.
- Install a stake next to the vine to provide stability.
- Water the vine with two or three gallons of water immediately after planting.
- As new shoots begin to grow, watch for signs of pest damage that may inhibit vigorous growth.
- Do not allow weeds to grow near the vine row, and keep the young vines well watered. The amount and frequency of irrigation will vary depending on region and environmental conditions.
Green growing (potted) vines should be acclimated to seasonal weather conditions in a protected area for a few days prior to planting. Do not plant potted vines until after the risk of frost has passed in the spring. Be sure to remove the vine from pots before planting. If you are using grow tubes, install them after planting, lightly covering the base with soil to exclude herbicide sprays. Do not bury them too deep into the soil as root constriction may occur.
Timing
In most of the U.S., the best time to plant grape vines is very late winter or early spring, if irrigation is available.
To ensure the highest quality vines and a specific cultivar or rootstock, order vines from a reputable nursery [1] in the summer or early fall prior to planting in spring. If you wait until January or February to order, you could have problems with plant availability and/or quality [2]. For example, you will probably miss out on the best rooted cuttings (often termed #1), and poor quality vines can be too weak to survive. The nursery should ship the vines at or near your desired timeframe around planting.
Once delivered, vines should be planted immediately, if possible, and not stored. Storage of dormant vines leads to desiccation of the roots and buds. This will prohibit the vine from growing optimally and may lead to death.
If vines are received before the site is ready for planting (e.g., soil preparation, irrigation set up or trellis construction has not been completed), unpack the vines and cover them with soil in the shade until planting. This is known as 'heeling-in.' Vines will remain healthy in the heel bed for up to four months. Do not store vines in water or a refrigerator for long periods of time. Water the heel bed periodically to keep the roots moist but not wet. Never allow the roots to dry out, as this will lead to poor growth or vine death.
Nursery Stock and Standards
Most grapevines are sold as dormant rooted cuttings and are either grafted or own-rooted. Rooted cuttings are graded by nursery industry standards. Becoming familiar with these standards is important to help you make decisions on plant material and can make the difference between success and failure of a new vineyard. For further information see Quality Guidelines for Grapevine Nursery Stock.
A 2-year-old #1 vine is more vigorous and will transplant with better success and become productive quicker than a #2 vine. A #1 rooted cutting is produced in a phylloxera-free nursery and certified as virus tested. Although certified virus-tested vines are initially more expensive, they are cheaper in the long run as this avoids problems with lower production and poor plant health associated with virus-infected vines. Remember, virus-tested vines from the nursery may not stay that way in the vineyard if efficient vectors are present, and virus-tested vines are not guaranteed to be completely virus free. Virus-infected vines can never be cured. Virus-tested cuttings should be ordered as far in advance as possible (up to one year prior to planting) to ensure availability of planting stock. Vineyard establishment from non-rooted cuttings is a gamble and you should consider success from them as atypical. This method, although less expensive initially, often leads to slower growing vines that do not come into bearing as quickly as purchased vines. You can also inadvertently introduce diseases and viruses into the vineyard by taking cuttings from another vineyard. All new vines should be free of viruses, insects, and disease.
Recommended Resources
Tips on Growing Grapes, University of Minnesota
Grapevine Fall Season 1
Planting Grapes, Iowa State University
Grapevine Fall Season 3
Growing Grapes, Ohio State University
Grapevine Fall Season Premieres
Reviewed by Patty Skinkis, Oregon State University
and Keith Striegler, University of Missouri
